A Kitchen in Queens

As we’ve established in earlier blog postings, I am a massive meatball fan.  So, when The Meatball Shop’s competitor opened right off Union Square, I had to try it.  On New Year’s day I called up my friend Melony, who is always happy to grab lunch and try something new.  I met her in Union Square and suggested we give The Meatball Factory a go.  

Started by a 1st season Top Chef contestant, I expected that this restaurant was going to be top notch.  Considering that the LES’s Meatball Shop has gotten glowing reviews since it opened, and constantly pushes the envelope with it’s edgy balls and sauce concoctions, I would assume that a competitor would go big or go home.  

The decor was ok, nothing amazing, but it was certainly much quieter and much more spread out than the Meatball Shop.  There was no elbow to elbow long table, no having to maneuver around waiting customers and waitresses who are trying to squeeze by patrons while carefully balancing glasses of wine.  

I noticed that the names of the courses were eerily similar to that of the Meatball shop. The Balls.  The Sauce.  The Veg.  The Salad.  It was the same idea.  Pick your ball, pick your sauce, pick your side.  Even more disappointing? You couldn’t write on your menu.  

The menu here was much more descriptive and the balls fully explained.  Rather than simple names like “Beef” or “Lamb” they have catchy names like, “Hog Wild”, which is a Braised Heritage Pork Shoulder, Ground Heritage Pork Shoulder, Nueske’s Cherrywood Bacon Fat, Mascarpone and a dash of Red Chili Paste.  Sure, it sounds impressive, but does it taste impressive?  Meatball Shop prides itself on organic ingredients from local markets, but doesn’t throw it in your face.  

The most impressive part of the Meatball Factory were the sauce choices.  Thai Curry, Vodka Sauce, Marinara, Poblano BBQ, Mushroom, Bolognese, Black Truffle and Salsa Verde.  I just couldn’t decide.  Luckily you can do a sampler of 3 for 4.00.  I tried the Thai Curry, Poblano BBQ and Marinara.  I asked the waitress which ball I should get and she recommended the classic. (Certified Angus Beef Brand Hanger Steak, Heritage Pork, Premium Veal, Aged Asiago & Thyme - Gluten Free!) 

Their sides were lacking.  I didn’t want french fries, and there weren’t any options for pasta.  I asked for a recommendation and she recommended the Roasted Cauliflower & Garlic Puree with a splash of cream.   

A few minutes later, the balls came out with the sampler (pictured above) and they were decent sized, but not so big that I thought I’d have a problem finishing.  The balls themselves were ok. Nothing to call home about (and I call home about good meatballs!)  They tasted a bit like a cross between homemade meatballs and store bought frozen meatballs.  Honestly?  I make better classic meatballs than that.  

I will give them credit for their sauces though.  I enjoyed the Thai sauce, although my mind wasn’t blown, and thought that the BBQ had a nice flavoring.  The Marinara I could have forgotten.  

After eating my way through 3 or so meatballs, I finally asked where my Cauliflower was.  They brought me a big heaping plate of dry, tasteless Cauliflower puree.  I didn’t taste garlic and I’m 99% sure there wasn’t any cream because it was pretty bland.  If I had the guts I would have asked for them to remove it from my bill.  I even tried dipping it in the sauces to make it edible, but it wasn’t.  

It seems like a lot of effort for meatballs. Meatballs are made to be simple.  Italian cooking in general is just smart cooking.  Simple flavors that work well together to create a flavorful dish that reminds you of home.  The Meatball Factory simply tries to hard.  The menu is overwhelming and pushy.  The service is mediocre and quite frankly, so is the food. 

I’ll be sticking to the Meatball Shop from now on.